Backpacking Hetch Hetchy, Yosemite – Day 1: O’Shaughnessy Dam to Lake Vernon

TilTill Valley was once featured in an old backpacker magazine article, and I have been wanting to hike this Yosemite backpacking loop since I saw that. The article is lost, or recycled, so I can only remember the description of the lush valley in vague terms. It was supposed to be wildflower paradise, an accessible glimpse into Yosemite’s hidden wilderness meadows.  Of course, I did this hike in September (9/2018) so the waterlogged meadow, now more dry and brown, was somewhat less of a wildflower mecca. Plus, Yosemite’s Hetch Hetchy area trails are HOT in September.

This particular trip was a result of my procrastination. I had delayed planing a Labor Day weekend trip to see if Curtis was able to come along. He wasn’t, so going solo now – and having to fight for a first-come first-serve Yosemite wilderness permit – I made the choice to tackle this hot loop in the north western part of the park.

When I started this loop I was contemplating trying to book it to Jack Main Canyon on day one, instead of Lake Vernon. Even though it is only a few miles north of Lake Vernon, Jack Main Canyon feels much more like a remote corner of Yosemite. That trip will need to happen some other time though. While traveling solo I was stuck carrying all my own wine, gear, and more wine… so my feet took me straight to Lake Vernon instead.

Please note: As of the date this is scheduled to be posted, Yosemite is CLOSED right now due to Covid-19. This 2 year old trip report shall be a part of the “Remember when we didn’t stay at home” series, where I catch up on old trip reports during California’s stay at home order.

Backpacking Hetch Hetchy Loop, Yosemite: Vernon Lake, TilTill Valley, and Rancharia Falls

Trailhead: First pick up permits – you can get them right at the Hetch Hetchy entrance station. I received my first come permit on one of the busiest weekend of the year by showing up EARLY. Alternatively you could try to plan ahead and reserve them online. Hetch Hetchy is accessed via the HWY 120, turn left onto Evergreen Rd just prior the Yosemite Park Entrance, then follow the road to Camp Mather and turn right at the T-intersection. Backpacker parking is signed. Map.

Distance: My GPS watch tracked 11 miles on Day 2 from Vernon Lake ton Rancheria Falls, elevation ranging from 3,780 ft to 6,760 ft., total climbing of 3,350. The National Geographic map list this distance as about 10 miles. The total mileage for the full three-day loop was 28 miles.

Hetch Hetchy Backpacking Loop Topo Map – click for larger. Reports detailing the hike from Lake Vernon to Rancheria Falls and Rancheria Falls to the Hetchy Trailhead coming soon.

I visited the Big Oak Flat (BOF) Visitor Station first thing in the morning to receive this permit. At the time, I had still held onto a dream of hiking in Tuolumne Meadows. The way the permit system worked then (it changes often, but I think this is still the case), hikers at the appropriate issuing stations receive first dibs on permits out of the area. So being that I was at the BOF station instead of Tuolumne Meadows Station meant I was definitely not going to get my desired permit on the Labor Day weekend. I was able to get the Hetchy Permit though after a quick call between the offices. To this day I still haven’t tried to get a permit at the Hetchy Visitor Station, although I imagine that would have less of a line then Big Oak Flat.

After parking the car at the overflowing backpacking parking, I thought I might be fund to attempt to find a use trail down to the dam from the backpackers camp. At this time it felt like I had all day – it 9:30 am! Hiking solo means looking for some ways preoccupy yourself…

Pro Tip: There is not a proper use path from backpacker camp to O‘Shaughnessy Dam. There is a path, which seems okay until you reach a erodible cliff-y type situation. Unless I missed something?  I recommend walking down the road, you have plenty of mikes to find adventures on the real trail.

After a quick mile haul over the dam, through the frog lined O’Shangonessy tunnel and skirting the reservoir, the trail veers up the switch-backed old Lake Eleanor Road to climb out of the Tuolumne River canyon. This is a nice, if strenuous, stretch with plenty of vistas to take in during the climb. If you are looking for a snack stop I would recommend somewhere along this stretch before reaching the trail intersection at mile 3 for a better vista.

After the switchbacks are completed, the trail continues to climb steadily. From looking at the map I had mentally prepared myself to think about the switchbacks as about a third of my total climb for the day. Maybe an underestimate, but I didn’t want to get too excited to be ‘done’ climbing. It’s still a little difficult to not come out from on top of the canyon rim and stop your mind from expecting it might get easier though.

This next section of the trail weaved through dry meadows and forests. It is less maintained (or maybe less traveled) then many of the trails closer to Tioga Pass or Yosemite Valley. This is normal for this part of the park, and might pose an issue in early season – when it would likely be soggy both underfoot and along the chest height vegetation growing into the trail.

Between the trail intersection at mile 6 I stopped to take my lunch and consider my options. One day I will make it out to Jack Main Canyon, but it is a long haul for day one on the trail, and I knew I would have lots of fellow hikers around Lake Vernon – which is appealing to me as a solo hiker. When I am with Curtis, we chase solitude in the backcountry, but while solo it is nice to know that humans are nearby.

Past the mile 7 intersection – towards lake Vernon instead of Jack Main – the trail finally reaches some sweet, sweet granite. Its obvious why Vernon is a popular destination. The lake is nice for swimming, there are a lots of spaces for camping, and this granite.

BTW: Lake Vernon also has bears.

I wandered around a while to scope out my campsite, and ended up near the north side of the lake’s outlet. The first site I considered looked bigger, but had bear poop, so I nixed that one for anouther a little ways over. A mother and son ended up setting up their camp in the larger spot, which I could spot from my “kitchen” set up – this is also where I did the my lazy sunning and wine drinking because that is the type of bougie solo backpacker I am.

Of course, who should pop into the Mother and son’s campsite as I am cleaning up from dinner? A bear friend! They didn’t see it at first, but I shout over something along the lines of “Hey look a Bear!” and start banging my pots around to try and get it to back off from the camp area. Poor bear was in a situation because his plan was apparently to ramble over from that spot to the outlet, but I was having none it. He ended up skirting around the boulders I was just sunning on about a half hour ago, and scamper out into the trees.

Not to brag, but scaring off that bear from my campsite while solo hiking is probably one of my most badass moments. The folks on the other side of the lake probably thought I was crazy!

Day two will be posted soon…