Backpacking Hetch Hetchy, Yosemite – Day 2: Vernon Lake to Rancheria Falls

As the seasons in Yosemite change, so do the annoying pests that join along on hikes uninvited. The early summer brings mosquitoes, in mid-summer you might run into a biting flies, but during the hot dry late late summer days it is the face gnats that run the show. I did this solo backpacking trip to Rancheria Falls in September 2018, firmly during the hot dry late summer.

My solo tent, my safe spot (from those bugs!)

The hike between Vernon Lake and Tiltill Valley is face gnat hell. Yes, objectively this type of bug is not even THAT bad – gnats don’t really bite when you are moving. But it becomes a little TOO MUCH when you have had a cloud of face gnats constantly in your business for miles… it becomes a mental game.

So yes, I lost it. And you can probably imagine how it went down: A woman with with an oversized backpack jogging through a blistering hot day, swatting at her face, and screeching into the wilderness to “Just leave me alone.”

The good news is this trail isn’t super busy, so there is no one is around to see you loose your mind over some tiny bug! Plus, the river at Rancheria Falls is a wonderful spot to take a cool break and try to forget the horrors of the day! Wonderful!

Top to bottom: Relaxing in Rancheria Creek’s infinity pool at camp, Tiltill Valley, and the trail from Lake Vernon

Please note: As of the date this is scheduled to be posted, Yosemite is CLOSED right now due to Covid-19. This 2 year old trip report shall be a part of the “Remember when we didn’t stay at home” series, where I catch up on old trip reports during California’s stay at home order.

Backpacking Hetch Hetchy Loop, Yosemite: Vernon Lake, Tiltill Valley, and Rancharia Falls Day 2

Trailhead: See day 1

Distance: My GPS watch tracked 10.5 on Day 2 from Lake Vernon to Rancheria Backpackers Camp, minimum elevation 4,476 ft and maximum elevation at 7,375 ft, only climbing up 1,463 ft.

Hetch Hetchy Backpacking Loop Topo Map – click for larger. Day 1 trip report for the Hetchy Trailhead to Lake Vernon is here. The report detailing hike from Rancheria Falls to the Hetchy Trailhead coming soon.

The trail from Lake Vernon to Tiltill Valley starts with a beautiful climb, with a nearly constant view of Lake Vernon. This was my favorite part of this hike. Since it is only the beginning the urge is to push onward quickly. I’m going to recommend slowing down to take in the view. This is essential for fortifying oneself for the journey ahead. 

After wandering away from the granite surrounding Lake Vernon, the hike travels into a forested section. It is halfway through this forested part of the trail that the maximum elevation of the hike is reached, and then the steady decent begins. It is also where the face gnats roll in like a tidal wave.

I was surprised I didn’t run into more people on the trail, given the number of hikers I shared the night with at Lake Vernon the previous night. The one group I crossed paths with was ascending away from the horrifying face gnat miles, right as I was quickly descending into it. They asked if they got better ahead, and I said eventually – thinking of the sweet granite by Lake Vernon. I didn’t know what they had been through yet. Until reaching Tiltill Valley this part of the hike was a certainly memorable.

Tiltill Valley, a spot I had wanted to visit during wildflower season, was expectedly dry during September. I was pleasantly surprised with the cross breeze available in select locations. I enjoyed a lunch break here, with the breeze keeping the bugs away. It looked like most of the prime camp spots here where taken. I had planned to hike on to the backpackers camp anyhow.

Exiting the valley, the trail traversed a short interesting hill, then begins descending the switch backs down to Rancheria Backpackers Camp. This section is hard on the feet in the heat, but the switchbacks are plentiful.

The backpackers camp was busy enough. I set my pack in a spot, which seemed nice, but when the gnats appeared I knew it was time to try a little harder to find a better spot. It was a bit of an adventure, but I did find high ground with a cross breeze. No shade, but access to the creek made up for it.

Seriously, it was extremely hot this trip. I’m not sure if it was the weather or the elevation – either way, this cool creek was a life line.

Rancheria Creek (Lower falls?) cascading towards Hetch Hetchy

Rancheria Creek travels right next to the camp, downstream of the main falls. I found a nice little location to fill water then rest in the exact opposite of a hot tub. The crystal clear cold spot was superb.

Post about the hike out on day 3 coming soon. Photos below: